Top # 64 by Merchant and Mills

Yesterday I decided to actually make what I said I was going to make weeks ago, which is this modern take on the fisherman's top by Merchant and Mills. We stock a range of their patterns and this one caught my eye, as it's perfect for the temperamental British summertime weather and will look great made from a variety of fabrics. 

I've chosen to use up some of my fabrics and am going to use a crisp white cotton (£4.50pm) for the top part and a contrasting band on the bottom using our monochrome cotton floral print (£7.50pm) (I used this originally for a gathered, high waisted skirt). Hopefully this will add a feminine touch to this versatile smock. 

First cut out all your pattern pieces to the size you need them, then lay them onto your fabric.

Top tip: trace out your size onto dot and cross paper (£1pm) so that you can use all the sizes on your patterns at another time.

Pin your pieces down and cut them out. Don't forget to transfer all the markings and notches.

Pin your top front pieces, right sides together at the centre seam and sew 1.5cm seam allowance.

Zigzag stitch or overlock to finish the edges and press open.

Top stitch on the right side of front top, if desired. I did it in white so it was subtle but it would look lovely in a contrasting colour (if your confident that you can sew in a straight line!)

Pin your front top, to your front bottom, right sides facing, making sure you match up the corners of the pockets and notches carefully.

Once pinned, sew carefully making sure your lines are straight, as this will be where your fabric joins at the front and you want your pockets to be level.

Zigzag stitch or overlock to finish the edges.

On the wrong side, press your pockets downwards and pin the pockets in position at each corner and re-sew over the pocket lines, these lines will be seen on the front so make sure you choose a suitable colour and sew carefully.

This is the pocket from the front now held in place with your second stitch line. They can hardly be seen which I like with this fabric, but would like to try a bright colour thread too, to emphasise them.

Onto the back, pin the back top pieces with right sides together at the centre seam and sew.

Zigzag stitch or overlock to finish the edges and press open.

Top stitch on the right side of back top, if desired.

Pin your back top and back bottom right sides together and sew.

Zigzag stitch or overlock to finish the edges and press open.

On the front, with right sides together pin your front sleeves to your front arm holes. Making sure you match up the notches carefully and pin with the curve of the sleeve.

Sew using straight stitch and then zigzag stitch or overlock to finish the edges.

Repeat with the back sleeves. Taking care to match up the notches.

Next, with right sides together match up the front and back sleeves along the top edge.

Sew using straight stitch and then zigzag stitch or overlock to finish the edges.

Then, with right sides together match up the front and back sleeves under arm and side seams. Make sure you match the notches carefully as the point under the arm can end being a bit bumpy if not done well.

Sew using straight stitch and then zigzag stitch or overlock to finish the edges.

Iron on your interfacing to the wrong side of your neck facing. Zigzag or overlock the outer edge.

With right sides together match up the facing into your neckline and pin.

Sew in place and then clip to allow the facing to sit flat against your skin.

Edge stitch just above your seam so that it helps to keep the facing flat. Try and get this stitch line as close as possible.

Press facing into place.

Turn up your sleeves. I doubled mine up with quite large chunky cuffs, as I wanted them to be a 3/4 length turn up, all the time. Press, pin and sew in place.

I found the sewing quite hard as my machine was too wide for the sleeve to fit on so in the end I did them by hand. I'm not sure if this is because my seams were inaccurate or I hadn't turned the sleeve up enough to the wider part of the sleeve, or if my machine is just fat. So let me know how you get on?!

Turn up, pin  and sew bottom edge hem. Then finally press everything!!!

Voila...one fisherman's top ready to wear whilst I sit on a deck chair in my living room, sipping cider and pretending I'm at Glastonbury like all the rest of the Flo Jo team!!!

What have you been making this weekend?

Have a good evening.

Fran xx